How to View and Convert RAW Photo Files

If you’ve ever switched a camera to “RAW” mode, copied photos to your computer, and found files with extensions like .CR2, .NEF, .ARW, .DNG, .RAF — those are RAW files. They’re not regular images. They’re sensor data captured without the usual in-camera processing.

Here’s what they are, how to view them, and how to convert them to formats that work everywhere.

What a RAW file actually is

When a digital camera takes a photo, the sensor captures light intensity at each pixel position. In JPG mode, the camera then:

1. Reads the sensor data
2. Applies white balance
3. Adjusts contrast and saturation
4. Sharpens edges
5. Compresses heavily into JPG
6. Saves the result

In RAW mode, the camera saves the raw sensor data after step 1. Steps 2-6 happen later when you process the file on a computer.

The advantage: you have full control over white balance, contrast, exposure, and other settings after the fact. The disadvantage: RAW files are much larger and require special software to view and process.

Common RAW extensions

Each camera manufacturer has their own format:

• .CR2, .CR3: Canon (CR3 is newer)
• .NEF: Nikon
• .ARW, .SR2: Sony
• .RAF: Fujifilm
• .ORF: Olympus
• .RW2: Panasonic
• .PEF: Pentax
• .DNG: Adobe Digital Negative (a “universal” RAW format some cameras use directly; Adobe’s tools convert any RAW to DNG)
• .RWL: Leica

Each is structurally similar (sensor data + metadata) but stored in a manufacturer-specific way. Software needs to know the format to read it.

Viewing RAW files

Most operating systems can preview RAW files in their file browser:

macOS: Finder shows thumbnails for nearly all RAW formats. Quick Look (spacebar) works.

Windows 10/11: with the Raw Image Extension from Microsoft Store (free), File Explorer and the built-in Photos app show RAW thumbnails and previews.

iPhone Photos: shows RAW files but uses an embedded JPG preview — you’re not seeing the full RAW data.

Web browsers: don’t natively display RAW. You’ll see a download link or generic file icon.

For just looking at RAW photos, the OS-level support is usually enough. For editing or converting, you need real RAW software.

RAW processing software

Free options:

Darktable (free, cross-platform): the open-source standard for RAW processing. Powerful but learning curve.

RawTherapee (free, cross-platform): similar to Darktable.

Apple Photos (Mac, free): built-in RAW support; good for basic editing.

Microsoft Photos (Windows 10/11, free): with the Raw Extension, handles basic editing.

Camera-bundled software: Canon’s DPP, Nikon’s NX Studio, Sony’s Imaging Edge. Free, optimized for that manufacturer’s RAW format.

Paid options:

Adobe Lightroom (subscription): industry standard, professional features.

Capture One (purchase or subscription): professional alternative, often preferred over Lightroom for specific brands.

DxO PhotoLab (purchase): specialized lens corrections and noise reduction.

Affinity Photo (one-time purchase): more affordable than Adobe.

Converting RAW to JPG or PNG

The conversion process is called demosaicing — interpreting the raw sensor data into a normal image.

Easiest path: use the camera’s bundled software or any RAW processor:

1. Open the RAW file
2. Make basic adjustments (white balance, exposure if needed; or just leave as default)
3. Export → choose JPG or PNG, pick resolution and quality
4. Save

Adobe Lightroom:

1. Import RAW files
2. Develop module → adjust as needed (or skip adjustments)
3. Export → JPG/PNG → set quality and size

Darktable:

1. Lighttable view → import RAW
2. Darkroom view → adjustments if desired
3. Export → choose JPG/PNG

The export step lets you choose:

• Resolution: keep at original, or resize for web/email
• Quality: JPG quality 80-100 (higher = bigger files)
• Color space: sRGB for web; Adobe RGB for print

Why you’d shoot RAW

RAW takes more storage (typically 20-40 MB per shot vs 4-10 MB for JPG) and requires processing. Worth it when:

Tricky white balance: shooting under mixed lighting (some indoor, some outdoor windows). Fix in post.

Recovering shadows or highlights: RAW has 10-12 bits per channel vs JPG’s 8 bits. You can pull detail out of overexposed or underexposed areas that JPG would lose.

Professional work: clients expect maximum quality and editing flexibility.

Important moments: weddings, once-in-a-lifetime events. RAW gives you flexibility if anything in-camera goes wrong.

You enjoy photo editing: more processing control means more creative latitude.

Why you’d NOT shoot RAW

JPG is fine when:

Storage matters: RAW eats 4-5× the SD card space. On long trips, this adds up.

You don’t want to edit: if you’ll never open the photo in editing software, the extra information is wasted.

Quick sharing is the goal: JPG comes out of the camera ready to share. RAW needs processing.

Phone photography: most phones shoot great JPGs (or HEIC) with very good in-camera processing. RAW on phones is more nuanced — useful for specific cases but not the default.

Most general/family photography: JPG is perfectly capable.

Storage considerations

If you have 1000 RAW photos from a vacation:

• At 30 MB each, that’s 30 GB
• Cloud backup (iCloud, Google Photos) charges for storage
• External drives fill up faster

Strategies:

• Keep RAW only for the best shots, delete the unedited rejects
• Export edited versions as JPG for sharing/archiving long-term; keep RAW only as masters for known important photos
• Use cloud-based RAW workflow (Lightroom Cloud) that lets you keep RAW backups without local storage

After converting RAW to JPG/PNG

Compress further if needed: Image Compressor for smaller files.

Resize for specific use: Image Resizer for web, social, or print.

Crop and refine: Image Cropper for aspect ratio adjustment.

Strip metadata: EXIF Stripper for public sharing.

Special case: DNG files

DNG (Digital Negative) is Adobe’s universal RAW format. Some cameras (Pentax, Leica, some smartphones with pro modes) shoot directly to DNG. Adobe tools convert any manufacturer’s RAW to DNG losslessly.

DNG benefits:

• More widely supported across software than manufacturer-specific RAW
• Standardized structure
• Slightly smaller files (Adobe added compression)

Reasons to convert RAW to DNG:

• Future-proofing (if a manufacturer’s software disappears, DNG remains readable)
• Standardized workflow across many cameras
• Slightly easier archival

Workflow: open in Lightroom or Adobe DNG Converter (free), save/export as DNG.

RAW + JPG mode

Most modern cameras can shoot RAW + JPG simultaneously — saving both versions of each photo. Useful when:

• You want JPG for quick sharing right out of the camera
• You also want RAW available for editing later
• The cost is just storage (you’re keeping both)

For travel and event photography, this hybrid mode is often the right choice.

TL;DR

• RAW files are camera sensor data, larger and more flexible than JPG
• Extensions vary by manufacturer: CR2/CR3 (Canon), NEF (Nikon), ARW (Sony), DNG (universal), etc.
• Viewing: macOS shows previews natively; Windows needs the free Raw Image Extension
• Converting: any RAW processor (Darktable, RawTherapee, Lightroom, camera-bundled software)
• Best for: tricky lighting, important shots, work with editing
• Skip for: storage-constrained situations, no-edit workflows, casual shooting
• DNG: Adobe’s universal format; option for future-proofing
• After conversion to JPG/PNG: use our Image Compressor, Resizer, etc.